Inside Perfume

Posts Tagged ‘eau de cologne

Kim Kardashian, being attentive to her fans via her blog, posted yesterday that she was recently in NYC to debut her self-titled fragrance to “beauty editors from Seventeen MagazineLucky MagazineGlamourSelf and a ton more!” And the result of a phone interview has already been published in WWD. The bottle design and scent have been completed and she’s busy at work with the early stages of promotion. The WWD article mentioned that Kim has an incredible online fan base, over 2.5 million followers on Twitter! So in addition to print advertising, a lot of the promotion for the fragrance will take place on Facebook, Twitter and MySpace.

Kim has made a point of including her fans in the process of making this fragrance. It may be the first perfume creation to be thoroughly documented on a blog! The blog was the first place she announced she would be making a fragrance. She even posted photos of the cast of the bottle design. The shade of pink to be used on the bottle was decided by a poll she presented to her fans. So it’s no surprise that Kim will be doing some surprise appearances for the release that she will only announce on Twitter. I’m assuming that these appearances will be at Sephora locations, since Sephora said she would be doing appearances in their stores. The perfume will be available exclusively at Sephora for three months, and released elsewhere by Mother’s Day, 2010.

It’s kind of ironic that the fragrance will be debuted to the rest of the world by Mother’s Day. The fragrance was originally planned to hit stores before Mother’s Day in 2009! When that date came and the perfume was still not out, I spoke with the reported producer of the fragranceNew Wave Fragrances. New Wave is the producer of the Ed Hardy line of fragrances, and Christian Audigier fragrances. They told me to expect a release of the perfume in early 2010. That’s still true, but WWD reported that the producer of the fragrance is now Lighthouse Beauty, producer of 50 Cent’s Power fragrance. So I’m guessing the delay with the perfume may have to do with some back story about the business end of the deal.

Regardless, the scent has been completed and Kim says it’s “exactly how she wants to smell.” It features crisp top notes; middle notes of  jasmine, tuberose, and gardenia; and base notes of tonka bean, jacaranda wood, and sandalwood. Again, it will debut with a three month exclusive at Sephora, and roll out to department stores by Mother’s Day.

With so many wonderful fragrances to choose from, finding a scent you like can be challenging.  Here’s a quick reference, grouping fragrances by family according to the notes they contain to help you find the aromas that appeal to you most.


 

Women’s Fragrance

Floral:  Floral fragrances may be blends of mixed blossoms, bouquets of rose, jasmine, iris, hyacinth or a more well-defined floral note.  These florals can be combined with fruity elements, hints of apple and citrus for a more crisp, fruity-floral effect or mingled with touches of vanilla for a soft powdery scent.

Oriental: Warm and sensuous, oriental fragrances are reminiscent of the exotic spices and sweet resins of the East.  Fragrant clove, cinnamon and mace mingle with the sweetness of vanilla and hints of amber. Orientals fragrances also combine these spicy notes with floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang, creating scents that wrap you in the magic of far away lands.

Fresh:  These fragrances capture the sparkling freshness of citrus oils such as bergamot, mandarin, lemon and grapefruit. Some are blended with leafy green accords such as young leaves and green  grass.  Others are enhances with aquatic notes for a cool and dewy freshness.

 

Men’s Fragrance

Woody:  Warm and opulent, these fragrances typically blend vetiver, sandalwood, and patchouli. Variations include hints of fresh citrus or sensuous, silky musk.

Fougère: These fragrances combine notes such as lavender, oakmoss,  spices and other floral accents with citrus and precious woods to produce scents that range from fresh to woody to spicy.

Fresh:  Pure and invigorating, these fragrances blend citrus notes such as mandarin, bergamot and lemon with watery ozonic notes or hints of precious woods and musk.

Have you ever wondered about the French terms you always see on a fragrance bottle? Eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne. I always thought it was a fancy way of labeling what’s for men and what’s for women. Now that I work in the industry, and I’m getting to know more about perfume, I learned something about these terms that really made me step back. They actually refer to the concentration of perfume oil, or aromatic compounds, in the product. Intensity and longevity of a fragrance is increased by creating it with a higher concentration of perfume oil.

Perfume oil, in it’s fully concentrated state, is too intense to enjoy at all. It can also cause an allergic reaction unless it is diluted. Perfume oil is most commonly diluted using ethanol, or ethanol and water. Perfume oil can also be diluted with neutral-smelling lipids like jojoba, coconut oil or wax.

I always thought eau de cologne was simply “men’s fragrance.” It’s actually just a fragrance with the smallest concentration of perfume oil. Eau de Cologne was originally a fragrance and trademark of a low level concentration fragrance made in Cologne, Germany. The term became a generic reference to fragrances with a low level of perfume oil concentration. Aromatic compounds make up only 2-5% of a cologne. An eau de cologne could be a men’s or women’s fragrance, though it is a concentration rarely made for women. 

An eau de toilette typically has a 10% perfume oil concentration, but can range from 5-20%. It’s concentration range overlaps that of eau de parfum, 15-30%. Though eau de parfum is typically a 20% concentration of aromatic compounds, it is not always more intense than eau de toilette. An eau de toilette is usually considered a lighter and fresher version of a fragrance. It’s formula can actually be tweaked for this reason, still holding a similar perfume accord though.

Next time you’re shopping for a fragrance, pay attention to these terms. If you don’t like a strong fragrance try an eau de toilette. If you see a line that offers both an eau de toilette and an eau de parfum, test them both and see if you notice the lighter, fresher scent of the eau de toilette. Tell me about your discovery.


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